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Monday, March 21, 2011

White Caps - a Hoodie

This design was inspired by my family’s love of the ocean and beach and comes in sizes 2T [4, 6, 8, 10, 12] (shown in size 4).

 photo: Brandy Fortune

With the simple chevron pattern and its white garter stitch rows I’ve tried to capture the waves’ white foam when they break and roll up onto the beach.

  photo: Brandy Fortune

The 3/4 sleeves and a generous seamless hood (well, there is a 3-needle bind-off at the top) make this a comfy sweater for outdoor play in the sandbox or, if you are lucky enough to live by a lake or beach, at the playa.

 photo: Brandy Fortune

The sweater is knit in the round from the bottom up to the armholes. Then the work is split into fronts and back and worked flat.

The hoodie is worked from set aside sts and closed with a 3-needle bind off at the top.

The sleeves are worked in the round from the cuff to the shoulder and then sewn in.

The hoodie band is worked flat by picking up stitches along the front edges.

Because this hoodie is for the rough and tumble play of kids, I chose to go with a hardy yarn by Red Heart: Eco-Cotton Blend, made of 75% recycled cotton (fabric remnants from t-shirts fabrication), 25% acrylic; a medium weight (#4, worsted) yarn.

If you would like to knit this hoodie, head over to Petite Purls for the free White Caps pattern. Enjoy!

Monday, March 7, 2011

Learned Today: Felted Join

I've been working on a couple of non-blogable projects lately that are slated for magazines coming out in the Fall 2011 so that my blog has been a bit quiet

But, as with any project that I like to work on, I've learned a few new things along the way. Today, I will share with you my discovery of the "Felted Join".

One of my projects involved some super thick wool yarn. I have never before worked with super bulky yarn and was a bit worried about what to do when the time would come to weave in the ends from multiple balls... This would make for a very thick, not very attractive back side...

Before I got along too far, I went surfing on the web and soon found a great solution for my problem: the "Felted Join".

I could think of quite a few positive points about this join:
  • Perfect for joining feltable yarn when adding a new ball
  • It is super fast (~30 seconds)
  • No bulk
  • Nearly invisible
  • No wasting of yarn
Wow, what more can you ask for?!

I've put together a couple of pictures to show you this great joining technique.

1) Two yarn ends that need to be joined.

This technique works only with feltable yarn (at least 30% - 50% animal fiber like wool, mohair, alpaca, etc.)



2) Split and fray yarn ends for about a 1/2 inch (max. 1 inch).




3) Stack the two frayed yarn ends so that the two 1/2 inch section lay on top of each other.

4) Wet the fiber by either wetting your fingers in a water glass and applying it to the ends or stick them quickly in your mouth to wet them.

5) Place the moist/wet frayed yarn ends on your palm, and
6) Rub your palms together to roll the yarn back and forth.

The heat from the friction together with the moisture will felt the frayed yarn ends together.
Tada! Your yarn ends have been permanently been bonded and this join will be pretty much invisible.


This technique came in very handy for my project and I highly suggest that you give it a shot too on your next project with bulky or thicker animal fiber yarn.



And if you have a non-feltable yarn, check out the "Russian Join". That sounds like a great solution for thick acrylics.

Happy Knitting!

Tuesday, March 1, 2011

Learned Today: Raised Increases

When I need to increase a stitch within the body of a garment and want to control the direction of the added stitch, I resort to the Raised Increase technique. It increases a stitch by working into a stitch in the row below the current stitch, hence it's called a  "Raised Increase".

There is a Right Raised Increase (RRI) and a Left Raised Increase (LRI) named for the side the increased stitch will rest on in relation to the root stitch.

The following pictures will show you the two raised increases:


Right Raised Increase (RRI)

Summary: The RRI is worked into the right leg of the stitch in the row below the st on the left needle.


1) Work to the stitch for which the increase will fall to the right side of = root stitch.


2) Insert the needle from the front to the back into the right edge of the stitch in the row below.




3) Yarn over needle and pull through - knit the picked-up stitch from the row below.



A right raised increase has been knit.

4) Then knit the next stitch (= root stitch) on the needle.
This is how a Right Raised Increase (RRI) looks like:

You can see that from the root stitch a new stitch is branching off to the right.











Left Raised Increase (LRI)

Summary: The LRI is worked into the left leg of the stitch in the row below a stitch that was just knit (and on the right needle).

1) Work to and including the stitch for which the increase will fall to the left side of = root stitch.
2) Insert the left needle from the front to the back into the left edge of the stitch in the row below.
3) Knit the picked up stitch from the row below.
This is how a Left Raised Increase (LRI) looks like:


You can see that from the root stitch a new stitch is branching off to the left.










I hope this helped. :)

Monday, February 28, 2011

Project Yarnway: Finale 2010

Alrighty, the inaugural year of Project Yarnway over on Ravelry.com has come to an end with the official deadline to post your 5-piece collection by today, Februrary 28, 2011.

Voting will start on March 1st and will last for 2 weeks.

I broke the ice and went first on the Professional Runway with the following post:

Slip Stitch Explorations

For this final challenge, I decided to explore the slip stitch technique in more detail with a collection of 5 caps/hats - each worked in a different slip stitch technique.

For each cap, I tried to match a slip stitch technique with an appropriate yarn and styling. I had my share of trials and errors (see earlier blog entries for more details) and with mounting time pressure (only had some time during the last 2 weeks, eeks!) it was getting awfully tight.

But when I was done last night, I was blown away and very surprised to see how versatile the slip stitch technique can be. Just look at how different every cap/hat's style is!

Let me introduce you to my 5-piece collection:

Vertical Mosaic - panel

Cap #1 (Vertical Mosaic): With this cap, I explored the traditional use of slip stitches for color work, called "Mosaic". I soon realized that it is a neat technique for making vertical lines without resorting to stranded, intarsia or side-to-side knitting.

Doesn’t this cap look quite intricate? But with slip stitches you work with only one color per round at any one time!

This is a great technique for some bold statements zipping down the ski trails...

Flower Fez - panel

Cap #2 (Flower Fez): This cap was quite the journey for me: I've learned the braided trim cast-on for this project, re-knit sections of this cap a couple of times, and made my first ever flat top. And it was still not quite right until I added a crochet trim at the top edge and the 3 dangling flower "tassels".

The Linen Stitch makes for a pretty dense fabric, perfect for this pillbox shaped cap. And again, every round has been worked in one color only. Fascinating...

Mesh Beret - panel

Cap #3 (Mesh Beret) called for something more unusual. I was wondering if there was anything out there for a more Spring/Summer type cap. And indeed: you can use slipped stitches to create elongated "posts" for a mesh fabric that reminded me very strongly of double crochet stitches in Filet crochet.

I intentionally chose a very drapey yarn and combined with the airy mesh slip stitch pattern, I ended up with a slouchy beret. Two long crochet chains in complementing colors woven through a mesh row not only rounded out the picture but also double as ties to keep the beret in place. :)

City Slicker - panel

Cap #4 (City Slicker): The next slip stitch to play around with on my list was the Brioche stitch (in the US perhaps better known as Fisherman's Rib or Shaker Rib or one of the many other variations of this popular stitch).

I was curious to see if I could work this stitch on the bias to create diagonal lines. I picked the Stockinette Brioche stitch and worked a double increase at one edge, paired with a double decrease at the other edge. But instead of working the incs and decs every 2 rows, I worked them every 4 rows because they were doubles and not singles.

This cap is worked flat, one color per row only (!), sewn up on the side and then the stitches for the top are picked up to finish off the crown. The cap is worked extra tall so that the rim can be rolled up for a snazzy "melon hat" look.

Bobble-5 - panel

Cap #5 (Bobble-5): As it turns out, slipped stitches are a great alternative for the chunkier, thick yarns because they don't add as much bulk to the fabric as a full cable cross-over does. You can create some pretty neat cable imitations with slipped stitches.

While working on the design for this cap, I got a bit sidetracked by exploring bobble making. You won't believe how many different ways one can make bobbles! 3-, 5-, 7-st bobbles, Stockinette and Garter st bobbles, increase by kfb, yo's, etc.

Well, and there you have it - 5 caps all worked with a slip stitch technique. :)

I have gained a wealth of new knowledge with this final challenge, not only about slipped stitches, but also about yarn selection, stitch pattern influences on fabric properties, cap construction, bobbles, and I've learned the braided trim cast-on.

I'm even wearing a cap now (the City Slicker and Flower Fez are my favorites) without feeling like an egg head. Haha!

Thank you all for organizing, managing, participating and voting for the great Project Yarnway challenges throughout the year.

Check out all the other entries as well - and vote!

Cheers, Daniela

Friday, February 25, 2011

Knitting Daily Blog: Fabric Engineering

I am so flattered by being picked for a Knitting Daily Blog entry titled: Fabric Engineering.

It explains in more detail the shaped intarsia (or diagonal intarsia) technique that I've used for my Hourglass Pillows in the Interweave Knits Spring 2011 issue.

Some nice illustrations help you visualize this neat technique besides a textual description.


 And I LOVE the term "Fabric Engineer", especially with me coming from the Software Engineering side, it really hit the spot. Thank you, brother of Joni and Joni for sharing this with us.